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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: ned srp 22, 2012 19:50 
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Pridružen/a: pet lip 05, 2009 11:58
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Lokacija: 46°26"11.66"N, 14°3"36.62"E
Evo slušaj ovdje kako se čuje slomljen klip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28iLu9CJFTE&feature=plcp

ovaj sivi samurai je vožen godinu i pol brez pola klipa. Ovdje su na YT ugasili zvik inače bi dobro čuo kak lupa, ali ide kao da niš ne fali...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqhKMaerVFI&feature=plcp

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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: ned srp 22, 2012 20:09 
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Pridružen/a: čet stu 23, 2006 01:12
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Vidio sam onu temu sa slomljenim klipom i slike. Prvo ću skinuti poklopac da vidim ventile. Poštelat ako treba, a vjerojatno treba. Onda ću opet ispustiti ulje da vidim hoću li moći iščupati onaj veći komadić "nečega" kroz rupu vijka za ispuštanje ulja.

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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: ned srp 22, 2012 20:30 
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Pridružen/a: pet lip 05, 2009 11:58
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Lokacija: 46°26"11.66"N, 14°3"36.62"E
Pogedaj i sviječice, obično je ona sviječica gdje je slomljen klip puno tamnija od ostale tri.

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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: pon srp 23, 2012 11:43 
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Pridružen/a: čet stu 23, 2006 01:12
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Provjerio svječice. Kao nove, sve 4.
Popodne će doći prijatelj pogledati ventile, po potrebi poštelati. Ja se u to ne kužim.
Ima neko pravilo za štelanje? Jel to standardno pravilo ili je za svaki auto različito? Bar što se tiče ovih starih modela gdje je potrebno ručno podešavanje.
Kako je kod SJ413?

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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: pon srp 23, 2012 13:57 
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Pridružen/a: pet lip 05, 2009 11:58
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Lokacija: 46°26"11.66"N, 14°3"36.62"E
kod svih kulturnih 4 cyl motora ti je isto..........
Kod ovakvog klasikera je toliko prosto da prostije ne može biti. 1 na vagi 4 štelaš i obrnuto. 2 na vagi 3 štelaš i obrnuto. Treba samo ključ 11, kombinirke i špijuni. Za sam odokativni pregled ne treba nikakav alat a znalac jih može naštelat i brez špijuna.
Tolerancije češ nači gore u manualima, radi malo i sam :mrgreen:

PS
smijem se okladit da če slijedeči post u ovoj temi početi sa: koliko se štelaju ventili kod SJ 413...........
:hm

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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: pon srp 23, 2012 14:11 
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Pridružen/a: čet stu 23, 2006 01:12
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Neće. To sam našao u manualu, ali nisam našao redoslijed.
Onda sam na netu našao tipa koji kaže da nakon 25 godina rada sa autima, na suzukiju je nekaj specijalno.
Onda sam našao i ovo.

Valve lash is the gap that exists between the rocker arm adjusting screw and the butt-end of the valve stem. Valve lash should be checked (and adjusted, if necessary) in Samurais every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months--whichever comes first--using the procedure below. Use a quality thickness gauge set to make your measurements. Proper clearances are as follows: Cold Engine
Coolant temperature
59°-77°F (15°-25°C) Warm Engine
Coolant temperature
140°-154°F (60°-68°C)
Intake 0.13-0.17mm
0.0051-0.0067" 0.23-0.27mm
0.009-0.011"
Exhaust 0.16-0.20mm
0.0063-0.0079" 0.26-0.30mm
0.0102-0.0118"

Tools and partsThickness (feeler) gauge 10mm socket
Rags 12mm box wrench
Straight screwdriver 17mm socket
Valve cover gasket Socket driver

Setting Valve Clearance (lash)

Make sure the key is removed and the vehicle is in neutral.

Remove the blow-by gas hose from the cylinder head cover.

Remove the cylinder head (valve) cover and gasket. If you're careful, you may be able to re-use the gasket. (See the Samurai FAQ if you have trouble getting this cover off).
Caution: Reposition the distributor to the proper location if you moved it to remove the valve cover!


Remove the rubber plug from the ignition timing check window. This plug is located on the bell housing on the driver's side of the engine (left-hand drive vehicles).

Double-check to be sure the key is removed from the ignition. Viewing the crank from the front of the vehicle, turn the crank clockwise using a 17mm wrench. Align the line just below the "T" mark stamped in the flywheel with the "match mark" (the 90° corner forming part of the hole in the bell housing). This indicates when the #1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC).
Note: Cylinders are numbered starting from the front of the vehicle.


Remove the distributor cap and ensure the the rotor is positioned as pictured. If it is not, rotate the crankshaft exactly one full turn, aligning the marks once again.
Caution: Intake valves are on the side of the head nearest the carburetor, exhaust valves on the side nearest the exhaust manifold. Do not reverse the adjustments between intake and exhaust sides, or you'll be looking at a valve job.

Note: To set the clearances properly, use a box-end wrench to loosen the lock-nut only slightly, and leave the wrench in place. Then turn the adjusting screw while your feeler-gauge blade is inserted between the screw and the valve stem. You should adjust the screw until a slight "drag" is felt when you try to slide the blade. Once the proper adjustment is made, hold the screwdriver tightly and retighten the lock-nut, keeping the blade of the feeler-gauge in place. Double-check for a slight drag on the blade and readjust if necessary. It's better to set valve lash slightly loose than set it too tight.
Torque Specifications
Adjuster lock-nut 11.0-13.5 ft.-lb. 15-19 N-m 1.5-1.9 kg-m
Valve cover bolts 3.0-3.5 ft.-lb. 4-5 N-m 0.4-0.5 kg-m


Once everything is correctly positioned, set the intake valve clearances on cylinders #1 and #2 and the exhaust valve clearances on cylinders #1 and #3.

Rotate the crank exactly one full turn clockwise, then set the intake clearances on cylinders #3 and #4 and the exhaust clearances on cylinders #2 and #4.

Double-check that all lock nuts are tight, and that you haven't left anything sitting on the cylinder head.

Put your distributor cap back on.

Put your old gasket back in place (or use a new one) and then the valve cover.
Caution: Immediately reposition the distributor to the proper location (and retighten the distributor bolt) if you moved the distributor to replace the valve cover!


Torque the valve cover bolts to spec. Do not over-tighten the valve cover bolts or you'll be one unhappy camper. You'll either strip out the aluminum head, or you'll have a valve cover that leaks like a sieve.

Reconnect the blow-by gas hose to the cylinder head cover.

Put the rubber plug back in the ignition timing check window hole in the bell housing.

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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: pon srp 23, 2012 14:14 
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Pridružen/a: čet stu 23, 2006 01:12
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Kada imaš koga pitati, bolje pitaj, za svaki slučaj.
Kaj nigdje nema kakve kabine za samuraja, a da valja. Ne mora biti savršena. Našao u Slo kompletan auto za 550€. Ali ne može ga se voziti.

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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: pon srp 23, 2012 14:38 
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Pridružen/a: pet lip 05, 2009 11:58
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Lokacija: 46°26"11.66"N, 14°3"36.62"E
Budeš li radio ventile kak gore piše trebat če ti godišnji da završiš štelovanje..........
Uki za 550 eurona nemožeš ni nositi a da se ne raspadne a di tek da ga voziš. Vjerovatno je taj tvoj u boljem stanju.

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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: pon srp 23, 2012 15:35 
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Pridružen/a: čet stu 23, 2006 01:12
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Vidio sam ga na Slo oglasniku. 555€. Zeleni. Izgleda bolje nego moj. Ovako na slici.
I moj dobro izgleda na slici.

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 Naslov: Re: opet off roader
PostPostano: pon srp 23, 2012 15:51 
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Pridružen/a: pet lip 05, 2009 11:58
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Lokacija: 46°26"11.66"N, 14°3"36.62"E
Eh da ti je samo vidit kak ja i prika na slici dobro izgledamo :hihi
Prije mjesec dana prodao sam golu kučicu brez svega za više novaca........od samuraja je sve ispod dvije tisuče više manje krš. Što se pojavi dobro ispod te cijene prodano je za par sati. I to ljeti, zimi da ne govorim.
Dva nova blatobrana su 400 eurona.

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